Introduction
Anyone who witnessed Finland's Mika Myllyae stride to the gold
medal in the Men's 30 km classic race in Nagano had to have noticed that he was
kicking and gliding especially well given the blizzard-like conditions. Most of
the elite racers were having trouble with their wax icing up and slipping and
the wet heavy snow wax was accumulating so fast racers were usually at least
ankle deep in white stuff. Yet, Myllyae skied cleanly and with a sharpness that
was unexpected (impossible?) in such conditions. He went on to win the gold by a
margin of over one and a half minutes.
Another remarkable occurrence was unheralded Christian
Hoffmann's incredible result in the Men's 50 km skate. Hoffmann wasn't even
considered a dark horse for a medal, but was able to fight (and glide) his way
to an incredible bronze medal, less than a minute out of the gold in what was
perhaps Bjorn Daehle's most famous victory. Spectators and coaches alike were
amazed at how long Hoffmann was able to stay in a tuck position and glide out of
long downhills through sections that others had to work in. Hoffmann's top speed
was amazing and he even had trouble not "taking air" in some of the rolling
downhill sections.
For those of you who saw those two races, you know that material
can make a profound difference. Mika Myllyae skied on the breakthrough Toko
Carbon Grip Wax in Nagano and Christian Hoffmann benefited from the combination
of Toko Dibloc and Toko JetStream. Once again, Toko has sparked a wax revolution
similar to the one it started when it introduced its Dibloc fluorinated waxes
some 13 years ago.
When Jakob Tobler founded Toko in 1916, he had no way of
imagining what a rapid development lay ahead in ski sport. The tricks and
secrets of waxing - together with expert knowledge - over a period of many years
of research and development permitted the creation of a wide range of Toko
products. For decades, the users of the Toko line could depend on the latest
experiences from professional racing continuously being applied in the
development of Toko products. What happens in the fringe range between snow and
ski today is a research subject for entire scientific institutions. The
conversion of this knowledge to speed, gliding comfort, and care for ski bases
is Toko's very special expertise.
Toko Innovation
Toko has been setting the Ski Wax and Tool world on fire the
past 5-10 years. Toko has quietly pioneered virtually all of the recent wax
technology breakthroughs and innovations that have occurred in recent history.
Some examples of this include the following: Toko offers the only hand
structure tool that allows the waxer to apply an offset structure which channels
the water off the side of the ski - Toko Structurite. Toko was the first
company to develop and offer a fluorocarbon in block form (Streamline). This
product line is carried on by JetStream New and Old Snow Bloc. Toko is
still the only company to offer a Copper Brush. The Toko Copper Brush is
far softer than any other metal brush on the market yielding fewer (or no) hairs
raised as a result of brushing. Toko GelClean was the first product of
its kind. Other companies have been scrambling to copy it, but it still sets the
standard. The Toko Groove Pin is an innovative and successful product
designed specifically to aid the waxer in removing wax from the groove and edges
of the ski. Again, other companies are attempting to knock it off, but the Toko
product is still leading the industry. Toko was the first company to recognize
that Fluorinated kick waxes were NOT the way to go. Two years ago, Toko
introduced the Carbon Grip line which brought general ridicule from other
wax companies representatives. Now, virtually every company has followed Toko’s
lead and dropped Fluorinated kick waxes. The Carbon line is still THE kick wax
of choice on the World Cup. Toko Dibloc was the first fluorinated glide wax
to be used on the World Cup. This tradition continues with the Dibloc HF and
LF product lines. Toko was the first company to develop an iron specifically for
the purpose of waxing skis. This concept has been greatly built on and the
Toko WaxCat Iron is the newest Toko offering. The Toko Plexi
Sharpener is a unique tool that enables the waxer to easily sharpen a
Plexiglass scraper if virtually any size quickly and effectively. This is a
unique tool to the industry brought to you by Toko. Toko HF and LF
Molybdenum is an industry changing product. This product is used as a base
layer by the whole elite ski world virtually every time a pair of skis is glide
waxed for a race. Toko Molybdenum is simply a great base layer that increases
the durability of whatever gets put on top of it. Toko HF Paste makes
skiing far more fun for the working (time challenged) skier who likes to ski on
fast skis, but doesn’t want to take the time to wax them before every ski. HF
Paste also is a great product for junior and youth program coaches who wax
dozens of skis before a race. It is affordable, easy and quick to put on, and
performs extremely well. This is a unique product to the industry that is bound
to be copied soon as it is being very well received. Red Creek Roto
Brushes (distributed under the Toko name) were THE Roto Brush Pioneers and
are still being used by some 95% of the World Cup and Olympic field. Red Creek
uses the best materials and tests thousands of new possible products
enthusiastically every season. Red Creek invented Roto Brushes and continues to
set the standard.
Outside of innovative products, new raw materials, and fast,
durable, well performing waxes, Toko has also greatly influenced the industry
with its idea of what a wax line should consist of. The Carbon Gripwax line
consists of a base wax plus 7 temperature/snow specific hard waxes and a base
klister and 4 temperature/snow specific klisters. This simplicity requires
not only less investment on the users end, but also allows the user to become
extremely familiar with each wax and its attributes. The glide wax line has
similar strengths: World Loppet line consists of 3 waxes, LF consists of 4
waxes, and HF consists of 4 waxes (including LF Moly and HF Moly). To be a Toko
waxer requires less investment and allows the waxer to be far more familiar with
each product. Of course waxes can (and should) be mixed which is easily done.
There are two Fluorocarbon products each available in block or powder form (New
and Old Snow JetStream). Not only does a Toko waxer save money and understand
the line better, but he will also be using a product that is certainly the wax
of choice on the World Cup and elite North American racing scenes.
The concept of a fast ski
What makes for a fast ski? This is an age old question and there
ARE answers to it. Start with the shape of the ski itself (height of the camber,
stiffness of the camber in relation to the tips and tail). Ideally, a fast ski
would properly share the load of the skiers weight over most of the surface area
(especially not forcing the front third of the ski into the snow, but allowing
it to run OVER the snow), at the same time, remaining stiff enough not to
hyperextend when a skater pushes off (causing drag under foot) or retaining
enough camber so when a classic skier glides, the wax pocket is not in contact
with the snow. Secondly a fast ski will have a running surface that is hair free
and that has a structure and base material appropriate for the snow conditions.
Finally, the base has been prepared with the appropriate wax. So, outside of the
ski selection, base material, base structure, and wax are the deciding
factors.
Base Material
This is a subject that is rarely talked about because generally
people have very little choice as to what bases they have available to them.
Most elite racers today use a graphite base in all conditions. The main
advantage of graphite bases over transparent is that they are good electrical
conductors which reduce electrostatic charging caused by friction between the
running surface and the snow. This is especially advantageous in dirty snow
where dirt absolutely clings to the ski base because of glide-reducing static.
One thing that isn't known to many skiers is that transparent bases (on racing
skis usually a 6000 transparent base) are superior in at least one snow
condition. In very wet new (clean) snow, where the snow is glazed or is
saturated with water (making the snow gray or shiny), a transparent base is
generally faster than a graphite base. The transparent based skis are usually
faster in every way - having a higher terminal velocity as well as having a
lower breakaway speed (read about these later). You will find these conditions
when it snows and then the sun comes out (or rains afterwards). In virtually all
other conditions, a graphite base is at least as fast. (There are many types of
graphite bases being used by ski manufacturers, but this isn't something that
needs to be discussed).
Base Structure
This is a rapidly developing area of our knowledge of what makes
skis fast. The addition of stonegrinding has allowed us to make patterns in our
skis that were never possible before. Stonegrinding also allows us to make a
more precise finish (and hair free if done correctly) that we can test,
duplicate, and improve on leading to even better finishes. If a person takes
into account all of the Nordic regions of the world there are virtually 1000
different stonegrind patters that "work" well, so the discussion will have to
stay very generalized.
For very cold (snow temp 0 degrees F and colder) and dry snow, a
ski should have literally no structure. The base must be completely hair free
and should be as glassy smooth as you can make it. Most of the old cadre say
skis need to be sanded and then metal scraped and then waxed and scraped and
waxed and scraped. Generally, this is worse than a "cold" grind. Stonegrinders
can do amazing things and can get the ski close to this state (while keeping the
surface of the base flat) and then a sharp metal scraper should be gently (and
at a slight angle like a snow plow) run down the surface. Attention should be
given to make sure the base doesn't get too dry (can wax between scrapings) as
this will bring up hairs. The wax will lubricate the base allowing it to peel
smoothly and not tear as often happens when the base gets dry. The metal scraper
should be kept very sharp and only the slightest pressure should be put
on the ski base. If the base ends up looking like a Teflon coated flying pan,
then it was either burned (too much pressure on the scraper) or torn (dull
scraper or dry base during scraping) and will be slow. Ideally a ski
racer who lives in a region that can get extremely cold should have a pair of
skis dedicated to extreme cold conditions.
For "normal" skiing conditions (snow temperature 15 degrees F to
29 F untransformed snow), an all around stonegrind will perform well. This is a
fine "offset" grind that has very little depth to it. This is a finish that most
skis come with and is very versatile. A skier with only one or two pair of skis
should have this structure on their skis.
In new fallen snow (or falling snow) around freezing, a new snow
grind is effective. Generally this grind looks like the all around finish, but
slightly deeper.
In most types of corn snow or machined man-made snow, a linear
stonegrind works very well. This is a grind that resembles a medium rill, but
unlike a rill, which is pressed in, this structure is cut in, which provides a
cleaner, longer lasting, and more precise finish. This finish also works well
(along with the new fallen snow grind) in wet new snow (untransformed as in
transparent base conditions).
In very wet transformed snow, the most effective type of grind
is offset such that there is a substructure of lines every half inch or so
angling diagonally off the ski. This is an effective way of channeling water off
the ski so it doesn't have to run the distance of the ski reducing suction. This
stonegrind works best in transformed snow. A serious racer should have a pair of
skis dedicated to these conditions with this finish. This is what is commonly
referred to as a "wet grind".
Stonegrinding is only as effective as you let it be. There are
racers out there who have 8 pair of skis with the same structure on them. We see
them waxing and testing their skis like crazy before events (presumably with the
appropriate structure for the conditions). What happens at the next event where
the conditions are very different, requiring a different base structure? Usually
these racers try to scrape or rill their skis in an effort to minimize their
compromise. What they are actually doing is ruining their skis (their bases are
generally hairy and wavy) and making them slow in most conditions. The real
answer is specialization. A serious racer should have skis with a cold grind, a
wet corn snow grind, a linear grind, and two with an all around grind. These
don't have to be all new skis; if good skis aren't used when the conditions are
marginal, they will hold up for years. Specializing skis simplifies things as
testing so many pair of skis before each race won't be necessary. This means a
pair of skis with an optimal structure for the day's conditions will always be
available. This method also makes it far easier for people who travel to
events as each ski should be waxed with a wax that matches its grind. This way
all conditions are covered no matter what the weather does. (If the
conditions are "normal", the cold skis and the wet corn snow skis stay in the
bag - they shouldn't even be tested as they won't be good). If a person can
specialize like this, metal scrapers and rillers don't need to be
used.
Stonegrinding is a superior alternative to rilling. When skis
are rilled, the structure is pressed into the base as compared to stonegrinding
where the structure is cut cleanly into the base. If a structure is pressed into
the base, the base surface will naturally return to its original form before too
long. With stonegrinding, the structure lasts far longer as the structure is the
base’s natural form. Rillling also makes for uneven wavy bases over time and
eventually leads to slow skis. In comparison to rilling, the Toko Structurite
Tool is far more gentle on the bases than a rill and will not damage the base
over time.
Wax
Waxing isn't so difficult if the basic concepts are understood.
When it comes to kick and glide waxing, there are two things that have to be
considered: the snow characteristics (and forecast) as well as the
characteristics of the waxes that are available. A person has to simply match
them up.
Glide Waxes
The different racing glide wax categories include paraffins,
synthetic waxes/hardeners, molybdenum (or graphite) waxes, fluorinated waxes,
and fluorocarbons. Each has its special properties which offer advantages in
certain conditions and disadvantages in other conditions.
Paraffins (World Loppet Waxes) are the waxes of the good old
days which resembled candle wax. They are usually soft and are also inexpensive.
Paraffins generally are utility waxes by themselves and are good for base
cleaning, saturating bases with wax, storage and travel waxing, and preserving
the ski bases during training. Pure paraffins offer no performance edge over the
other waxes in their respective category strengths, except for sometimes in
extreme cold conditions.
X-Cold is a synthetic wax or hardener and is useful in two ways.
X-Cold can harden the ski base making it fast in extreme cold snow and can be
mixed with other waxes to make them faster in colder snow or more durable.
Synthetic waxes are also very useful in preventing the ski base from oxidizing,
which happens especially fast when conditions are cold and abrasive. X-Cold
is also very effective when mixed with the Dibloc waxes as it makes them more
durable and increases their range in powder snow that is not wet - this is a
very common combination.
Dibloc LF Blue is a very hard wax containing some fluorine. It
is an excellent base wax for X-Cold as well as a an
excellent final layer in very cold and humid snow or very cold corn
snow.
Dibloc LF Molybdenum is an excellent base wax that can enhance
the properties of a graphite base. It is good at repelling dirt and preventing
static build up. Molybdenum is a sort of new generation Graphite that has
similar characteristics, but is even more advantageous as its is structurally
stronger - this means whatever you put on top of it will be more durable.
Dibloc LF Molybdenum should be used as a base layer wax in all
conditions below freezing.
The Dibloc HF waxes are optimally fluorinated for each
temperature range. These are also your most commonly used racing waxes. These
are paraffin based waxes with fluorine added to them which makes them both water
and dirt repellent and an excellent base for JetStream. It is important to note
that the fluorinated wax with the most fluorine in it is NOT necessarily the
fastest. The optimal amount of fluorine needed varies according to snow crystal
shape and the water content of the snow. Generally, as it gets warmer, more
fluorine is needed, which is why Dibloc HF Yellow has more fluorine in it than
Dibloc HF Red and HF Blue.
When snow is not transformed, X-Cold should be added to
the Dibloc HF waxes at a ratio of about 1 X-Cold to 3 Dibloc HF. This will make
the wax more durable and increases the wax’s effective range - it also makes the
skis "break away" at a lower speed.
JetStream is a fluorocarbon wax (also known as
Perfluorocarbon). It is very hydrophobic (repels water which breaks suction) and
dirt resistant. JetStream is most effective when the moisture content in the
snow is relatively high and/or the snow is dirty. JetStream is also very durable
in the appropriate snow conditions. It can be either ironed in (like all of the
previous waxes) or corked and polished in. Some form of JetStream (new or old
snow, powder or block) should be used on most race days as a final layer.
JetStream can be used in cold temperatures (snow temp 7 F) when the snow
crystals are transformed and humidity is high especially if there is any dirt or
in all warmer temperatures (snow temp 25 F) regardless of snow crystal type (use
the appropriate form) and humidity. For the range in-between, the dirtier the
snow, the higher the water content and humidity, and the more transformed the
snow, the more likely you should use JetStream. JetStream should be corked in
when the conditions are not so abrasive (or when the race distance is not so
long) especially in new snow and ironed in when the snow is abrasive,
transformed, and dirty, especially when the distance is longer. One very
important point about applying JetStream is that before JetStream is applied,
the wax that is under it needs to be brushed out very well. This is even more
important when rubbing it on, brushing it in, and polishing it because the
Horsehair brush that is used to brush the JetStream into the base will bring up
paraffin and mix it with the JetStream if the ski is not completely brushed out.
This will make the JetStream less effective and will also gum up the Thermo Pad
when polishing. (I run into this a LOT when doing JetStream demos and service at
races).
The recommended method specifically for applying
JetStream New or Old Snow is the following. For ironing, apply the JetStream to
the ski. Iron once very slowly (about 20 seconds tip to tail) without going back
at all with the iron on 7.5 to 8. Put enough JetStream on the ski to protect the
base from the bare iron. Wait some 20 minutes for the wax to completely cool and
brush out with a nylon brush (fluorocarbon brush only). Then polish. Then
lightly rub on some more JetStream and polish. This makes for a faster finish.
For rubbing and corking (without ironing), rub the JetStream on and cork it
aggressively into the base with a Plasto Kork (synthetic). Take a dedicated
horsehair fluorocarbon brush and work the JetStream into the base (don’t brush
it OFF the ski, but into the ski base). After this is completed, polish the
base. Then lightly rub on more JetStream and just polish it
well.
JetStream New Snow is best in new snow conditions,
especially when the snow glazes. JetStream Old Snow is best in transformed snow
with or without dirt. There are many conditions where the two product perform
similarly. Overall in testing, JetStream Old Snow performs better in more
conditions than JetStream New Snow. JetStream Old Snow also seems to be
generally faster in colder conditions than JetStream New Snow.JetStream New Snow
is especially effective in classic races as the tracks glaze up earlier than in
skating events. Keep this in mind when considering wax selection as in most non
transformed classic ski conditions, JetStream New Snow should be the final
layer.
One unbelievable new Toko wax is the HF Paste wax. This
stuff really works, although at this point, it is not recommended for elite
racing. The HF Paste should be rubbed onto a clean ski and let dry for 1-2
minutes. Then it should be wiped off and buffed with base tex (not a Thermo
Pad!). The only way to truly appreciate the HF Paste is to try it as it works
far better than could be believed in almost any condition. This would be a
miracle product for junior and youth coaches, especially at the low price. There
is no comparable product on the market at all to Toko HF Paste wax.Snow
conditions
Extreme cold new snow (snow temp at less than 7 F) is
very dry and abrasive. The crystals are extremely sharp. To skis, these are the
most "extreme" conditions. Skiing on cold new snow could be likened to skiing on
broken glass. The only real factor slowing the skis down is the dragging of the
sharp pointy crystals on the ski base. The solution is to make the base as hard
as possible. (About the only thing that slides on broken glass is glass as its
so hard the broken glass doesn't stick into it). This is where X-Cold is so
valuable. Another thing to consider when waxing for a race in extreme cold new
snow is what the skis were waxed with the last few times. If a warmer wax was
used, then this needs to be taken into consideration as the base will be softer
than if a colder wax was used. The longer the race is, the more layers of cold
wax need to be applied as each layer makes the base harder and more durable. If
the base didn't get enough layers then it will oxidize and break down during the
race and become slow. WL Blue, followed by Dibloc LF Molybdenum, followed by
Dibloc LF Blue, followed by X-Cold is an optimal combination. After waxing, the
skis should be scraped well with a sharp scraper and brushed out well first with
a nylon brush and then with a horsehair brush to get every bit of wax off of the
surface of the base as it would only scrape on the sharp snow and slow the skis
down. JetStream should not be used in these conditions. Another very good
combination is the same first two layers followed by a mixture of Dibloc LF and
HF Blue or Dibloc HF Blue mixed with XCold Powder 1:1.
Cold old snow conditions should be treated similar to
cold new snow conditions except that the crystals aren't quite as sharp and the
moisture content is probably a little higher. A racer could probably use Dibloc
LF Blue or Dibloc HF Blue depending on humidity and snow temperature. The warmer
and more moist it is, the more fluorine can be used. There is no reason to use a
fluorocarbon like JetStream in extreme cold snow as there is no water in the
snow at very cold temperatures and it is relatively soft. This applies to other
companies versions of fluorocarbons that are supposed to work in very cold
temperatures; they are inferior to a LF Molybdenum and Dibloc HF Blue/X-Cold
combination in extreme cold every time.
The most common conditions seem to be either new or old
untransformed snow with snow temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees F. The main
consideration in these conditions as to what wax to use is how slippery the wax
is on the snow. This is a strange concept, but is the main factor in these types
of conditions. JetStream is excellent in this situation as are the Dibloc III
waxes which makes selection simple. In these conditions, X-Cold should be
effectively sprinkled over the Dibloc HF wax. Then heat them in together, brush,
and polish. The Dibloc III wax should be selected according to snow temperature
and JetStream Snow should be applied afterwards. In newer snow JetStream should
be rubbed in and polished. Dibloc LF Molybdenum is an excellent underlying base
wax for the Dibloc HF waxes as usual.
One effective method in determining if JetStream should
be used (especially when its in question in conditions such as drier powder) is
to wax two pair of race skis. Test both and determine which are going to be the
day’s race skis. Then cork and polish JetStream on the slower skis and test
again. If they sped up significantly, then it should be applied to the race
skis. (Of course in conditions that require ironing of JetStream, this is not
practical, but in those conditions, it is usually easy to make the decision
whether to use JetStream or not).
In new fallen wet snow to new saturated snow the big
challenge is repelling water so suction doesn't slow the skis down. Dibloc HF
Yellow is the optimal wax followed by JetStream New Snow rubbed on and polished
in (or ironed in depending on the length of the event).
In dirty or cleanish corn snow from snow temperatures 20
to 32 degrees F, the appropriate Dibloc HF wax should be chosen followed by
JetStream Old Snow ironed and polished in. These are conditions where dirt can
be a factor and Dibloc LF or HF Molybdenum should be used as an underlying wax
for the Dibloc HF wax as usual.Kick Waxes
Some five years ago, fluorinated kick waxes were
introduced to the market with great success. Compared to the traditional kick
waxes, fluorinated kick waxes glide better with minimal sacrafice in kick. Now
Toko has taken kick waxes a step further with Carbon Kick Waxes. Carbon offers
advantages over fluorine in that the framework of the molecular structure is far
tighter and doesn't allow any room for snow crystals to get inside causing icing
of the wax. This allows Carbon waxes to be used in a wider variety of snow
conditions which is very important for days with changing conditions or when
there are different conditions in different areas of a race course. Carbon waxes
are easy to work and offer very good kicking and gliding relationships as well.
The Carbon waxes are available as both hard wax and klister.
The concept of waxing for classic skiing is such that
ideally when the skier is in the glide phase, the kick wax isn't touching the
snow (causing the ski to drag). During the kick phase, the wax pocket should be
fully depressed so snow crystals embed themselves in the kick wax allowing for
kick. These are ideal classic conditions that should be strived for.
Accomplishing this scenario is dependent on the skis having the proper
relationship in camber to the skiers weight.
The hard waxes and klisters can be applied according to
the Toko snow temperature/type chart. This is straightforward business. Kick wax
should be applied in many layers - up to 4 depending on conditions and the
situation. This makes the wax more durable as well as allowing the waxer to keep
the finish smooth. In abrasive conditions, a base wax should be corked or ironed
in. It is important to understand the difference between the brights and the
darks. They are similar waxes except that the brights are slightly harder than
the darks much like other brands special (bright) and extra
(dark).
A special wax is the Carbon Silver as it is unique among
kick waxes. Toko Carbon Silver is an effective wax in the most difficult ski
waxing conditions of all (commonly found at on-snow demos): when it is snowing
around 32 degrees F. Most waxes ice up at these temperatures and don't kick or
glide, but the Carbon Silver still performs quite well (ask Mika Myllyae). It
also works in conditions where soft wet corn snow is covered by new fallen wet
snow. Carbon Gripwax Silver should be experimented with a great deal as it is so
versatile. It can even be mixed with klister (Gripwax Silver mixed with
Multivoila Klister was the wax at the ‘99 World Championships in Ramsau). Carbon
Gripwax Silver should be applied much like klister in that it should not be
rubbed on, but rather dabbed on and then smoothed out.
Some techniques specific to kick waxing include
layering, ironing, covering klister with hard wax, and mixing waxes. Layering a
colder wax over softer wax is effective in loose snow to allow for better kick
because it allows the snow crystals to penetrate the kick wax easier (for better
grip) at the same time the softer kick wax isn't going to drag as the conditions
are not abrasive and the softer wax is covered with a colder wax. Generally
speaking, when a skier wants good kick and fast skis throughout a whole ski
session, the wax pocket should be sanded (150 grit in klister conditions and 180
grit in hard wax conditions). Then either Carbon Basewax Green or Green Klister
should be ironed in and corked such that a thin smooth layer remains. After this
layer cools, the appropriate waxed can be added. If the waxes are added outside
on-site, and it is cold out, it is important to warm the green (especially in
klister conditions) enough to make it slightly tacky. This will enable the new
wax to adhere to the green. Otherwise the final layer will wear off quickly and
the Base Green Klister will be left by itself.
Klister can also be covered by hard wax effectively in
conditions where there is ice covered by a little powder. Before applying the
hard wax, the klister must be allowed to cool. When corking the hard wax, the
cork should be kept moving in a light fashion and the klister should not be
"corked". The corking should be superficial. The most common scenario in
covering klister is Viola covered by a blue. The klister has to completely cool
first before applying the hard wax. Mixing waxes is generally a technique used
with klisters. Sometimes it works well to combine two waxes for "in between
temperatures". Silver klister is also often times mixed with universal
(Multivoila) or Orange. When applying klister, it is important to cover the
whole width of the base (except for the groove of course). An easy technique
that makes mixing also easy is to make stripes of klister covering the distance
from the groove in the middle of the ski to the edge of the on each side. Mixing
can be accomplished by alternating the klisters used in the stripes. The wax
should then be heated by a torch and smoothened out.
Regarding the klisters, a waxer should pretty much go
off the wax chart when selecting Viola, Multiviola, and Orange. Then Silver
Klister can be added, especially to the Multiviola and Orange klisters depending
on need. Generally Silver Klister is not used by itself. A little Silver goes a
long way and should be used sparingly. Silver generally does not glide as well
as Orange, but kicks far better. Generally, the most Silver Klister that would
be used would be a 1:1 mix with Orange Klister.
When selecting kick waxes, the two big determining
factors are how much "kick" the wax gives as well as how "fast" the wax is. Most
people forget about the glide part and focus on the kick part. This is a bad
practice especially as sometimes a softer wax will be just as fast but offer
better kick. On the other hand, sometimes a harder wax will be far faster and
kick just as well. Of course the conditions needs to be considered, especially
in classic skiing as the tracks can change so fast and generally do during an
event, especially an event with multiple loops (usually glazing which requires a
softer wax than otherwise).
One big challenge in kick waxing is identifying the
ski's wax pocket when at an on-snow demo where resources are limited. Of course
the first option is to wax according to where the skier says it is. Another
option is to squeeze the skis together in both hands and look how the camber
breaks - usually a wax pocket is fairly well defined and designed to fit a
particular weight skier. This is a very rough way of finding a wax pocket. The
problem that this can cause though is that the wax pocket may not fit the skier
which means if the skis are waxed according to how they were designed, the waxed
area might be too short or long. For this reason, the recommended method for
identifying a wax pocket during on snow demos should be to ask the skier,
eyeball the camber and make a small adjustment if things don't seem to add up.
Kick wax should also be applied heavier with less skilled skiers as their
climbing technique generally wouldn't be as good and they would be more likely
to slip.Tools and Brushes
Tools, brushes, and Thermo Pads are a vital part of ski
waxing. Tools such as plastic scrapers, groove scrapers, metal scrapers, and
structurites must be kept clean and sharp. Scraping with a dull scraper is not
only less effective but leads to a poor base finish. A sharp scraper doesn't
need as much pressure put on it and will also continue to remove unwanted base
hairs. Brushes remove wax from the base structure. If they are dirty the skis
will pick up this dirt. Brushes also need to be designated for specific wax
groups as the wax is retained by the bristles and then returned to the ski in
later uses. A serious racer should have a horsehair brush for extreme cold, a
nylon brush for general paraffin and fluorinated waxes, and one of each for
JetStream. If this is not done, when a waxer brushes out JetStream with a brush
that had earlier been used to brush out a World Loppet Yellow, the paraffin
would be smeared over the JetStream making it less effective. This holds true
for Red Creek Roto Brushes as well. Brushes should be marked clearly for their
purpose so no compromise is made. The same principle also holds true for the
Thermo Pads. Thermo Pads are used to polish JetStream. It is important to point
out that a Horsehair brush is especially good for cold temperatures not because
of the issue of static build up, but because the bristles are so fine. The
Horsehair bristles are something like 1/4 as wide as a Nylon brush bristle, such
that they go deeper into the ski. In cold temperatures, it is especially
important to remove all of the wax from the surface of the ski. Having said
this, it is also very easy to overbrush with a Horsehair brush for this very
reason. Because of this, it is recommended to do most of the brushing with a
Nylon brush and then in the appropriate conditions (no need to use Horsehair on
HF Yellow, for example), finish with a few passes with the Horsehair. The Copper
brush is also an excellent tool for removing warmer wax that needs to be
removed, such as HF Yellow. In wet dirty snow, it is very important that the
Dibloc wax be removed completely from the ski before the JetStream is applied.
This will make the JetStream more effective keeping the skis more hydrophobic
and dirt resistant.
The Plexi Sharpener is an excellent tool. There are two
points to keep in mind though when using the Plexi Sharpener. 1. Sometimes the
Plexi Sharpener creates a burr on the edge of the scraper. This should be gently
"knocked off" before scraping skis as it will cause overscraping. 2. After a
while, the scraper could pick up a few chatters or no longer be flat, this needs
to be corrected by aggressively rubbing the scraper at a 90 degree angle on a
file or sandpaper.
The Structure Bar and Structurites are great. The
Structurite is the only tool in the world that offers a waxer the ability to
press an offset structure into a ski by hand. Because of the offset structure
(which allows the water off the SIDE of the ski), the skis needs less structure
than a traditional linear rill. In wetter corned up conditions, ideally the
Structure Bar should be used first on the coarse side and then should be
followed by the Structurite with the coarse bit twice. When using the Structure
Bar, keep the index fingers straight and along the sides of the ski to guide the
bar and prevent waves. The new Structurite will fit all skis on the market
including the Atomic Beta.
Red Creek Roto Brushes are the dominant brush used in
the elite ski racing world. Virtually every Snowboard, Alpine, and Nordic
national team in the world uses exclusively Red Creek Roto Brushes. Red Creek
pioneered Roto Brushes and since then has lead the world in research and
development of brushes. Red Creek is a Swedish company. At the Nagano Olympic
games, some 100 Olympic teams finished their skis with Red Creek Roto
Brushes.
There are 4 different brushes to the Red Creek Nordic
brush line. They are Gray Nylon 4 mm (universal brush for paraffins or
fluorinated waxes), Black Nylon 7 mm (softer brush for polishing and
fluorocarbons), Horsehair 6 mm (harder brush for colder waxes), and Copper 11 mm
(an ideal brush for cleaning the base and opening pores before waxing). With the
first three brushes rotation speed should be about 3000 rpms, but with the
Copper, rotation speed should be kept below 800 rpms. When brushing, weight
should be kept completely off the brush (don’t push down). The shafts are
hexagonal, which ensures that the brushes will never slip. They also come in
single or double sizes.
General
Now and then ski bases get a little slow from constant
usage of fluorocarbons (without using paraffins in between) or because they
haven't been waxed consistently and have oxidized or dried out. A good way of
reconditioning them is to hot wax, scrape, and brush them multiple times. The
hot wax should alternate between a hardened wax (such as LF Blue or WL Blue) and
a softer wax such as World Loppet Yellow, LF Yellow, or HF Yellow. HF Moly is
also excellent for this purpose (used as the soft wax) and should be alternated
with WL Blue or LF Blue. This alternating between soft and hard waxes seals the
waxes in and restores the ski base to a healthy saturated sheen. The application
of the softer wax (which goes deeper and easier into the base), allows the
harder wax to go deeper and easier into the base than otherwise making for a
truly fast and durable wax job. This method is also recommended for new skis
after 5 initial coats of soft wax.The recommended snow temperature ranges listed
on the waxes and on the waxing charts are only guidelines. Experienced waxers
will also be able to read between the lines and make adjustments. For example, a
common condition in the Rockies is 18% humidity with snow temperatures that are
fairly warm (28 to 31 degrees F). A waxer would be tempted to go straight off
the snow temperature, but since the humidity is so low, there is surely less
moisture in the snow than would be normally found at those snow temperatures. A
recommended adjustment would be to either mix X-Cold with Dibloc HF Yellow or
even go with straight HF Red or Blue. The LF waxes also perform well in these
conditions. A similar adjustment would be made for windblown snow, which
generally has very little moisture content and very sharp crystals. Wind
generally lowers the moisture content of snow as well (in colder temperatures).
Of course a major issue often times overlooked is also how cold the snow became
the night before. When it got very cold the night and morning before an event,
the crystals become very dry and sharp and the wax selection should be adjusted
accordingly (go with a harder wax) unless warm snow temperatures are
anticipated.
Another mistake that is commonly made is that people
scrape their skis without letting the wax cool long enough. The wax must be
allowed to cool for at least 20 minutes (at room temperature) and preferably
more than an hour. The reason for this is that it takes time for the wax to
slowly cool and stay "in" the base. The most delicate part of this is the
absolute surface area of the base. If this wax is still the least bit soft then
the wax will not adhere (in reality it will not remain IN the absolute top layer
of base) and the base will have a matte finish like it was overscraped and
overbrushed (same effect actually). This is especially important in powder snow
conditions where all mistakes or inadequacies make a bigger difference and has a
bigger effect with the non hardened waxes - the Reds and
Yellows.
Great attention needs to be paid to forecasts and
incoming weather as the real issue is picking the correct wax for the conditions
during the event, not before it. Weather prediction is often the greatest
challenge as identifying an appropriate wax in any given condition is usually
straight forward.
It should be mentioned that there is a difference
between the Toko Alpine and Nordic waxes. The Alpine waxes are formulated for
terminal velocity (high end speed) and are therefore softer where the Nordic
waxes are formulated more for breakaway speed (low end acceleration) and are
harder.
Ski maintenance is a simple concept that if not
practiced can make a profound difference. Ski ties (sleeve style are most
effective) should always be used. They don't just help keep skis together, but
also protect the bases from rubbing together and scratching. Skis should be
waxed before travel to protect the bases from drying out and oxidizing. Skis
also should be waxed for the summer. A medium type wax such as World Loppet or
LF Red is effective as it is hard enough to last the summer, but soft enough to
really go into the base. When removing dirt or old kick wax from bases, Toko Gel
Clean or Toko Wax Remover should be used as these products don’t dry the ski
base and are easy to work with. The Copper brush is also excellent in cleaning
and getting a base ready for waxing after skiing.
Optimally a form bench should always be used when
working the ski base (scraping, corking, or brushing). The Toko Serviceboy
Nordic is an excellent form bench as it is fully adjustable. A form bench
supports the ski along the whole length such that when the base is worked, the
ski is supported, and pressure can be applied evenly and confidently. Without a
form bench supporting the ski, the base will have uneven pressure applied to it,
mistakes will be made, and the ski base will lose its good
characteristics.Ironing
Ironing is very important as heat is dangerous to ski
bases, but it is also how we apply wax. A quality iron is the first step to
proper ironing. Proper ironing means, first and foremost, using only as much
heat as needed to complete the job. A quality iron has a thick base which allows
the heat to disperse to the whole base before contacting the ski base, accurate
temperature settings which allow the operator to see what temperature the iron
is set at, and a thermostat with a small margin for error. Ironing can be
compared to cooking with a frying pan on a stove. If the frying pan is very
thin, then the food over the heating element becomes burned while the food on
the edges hardly even gets cooked. This is why a thick base is needed. If the
iron has a poor thermostat, when it gets too cool, the heat gets turned up until
the base gets too hot until the heat gets turned down etc. A quality thermostat
is sensitive to small temperature changes and makes the proper adjustments so
temperature is kept within an optimal window. This is especially important when
you consider that the iron heats up between waxings when sitting on the table
and cools off when it comes in contact with the ski. The Toko WaxCat has a thick
base, accurate temperature settings, and a sensitive thermostat and should be
used. Another feature of the Toko iron is that on the back of the iron is a
chart outlining what temperature setting to use on which waxes. "Travel irons"
and clothes irons are exactly what should not be used as they have all of the
properties of a poor iron. Furthermore, the iron should always be kept moving in
a deliberate tip to tail motion. Ideally the motion should be fluid with no
stops. (Ironing also polarizes the wax and in certain conditions it makes a
difference that the ions are aligned with one another). A useful test to see how
hot the ski base is becoming is to touch the ski base immediately after the iron
has passed over it with a clean finger. If the base is too hot to keep the
finger on it, then the iron is heating up the base too much. (Either turn the
temperature down or move the iron a little faster).It is also important to note
that some skis seem more prone to bubbling from heat than others. This is due to
a difference in base materials as well as a difference in ski construction. (ex.
a foam core and a honeycomb core will insulate the base differently). Keep this
in mind when ironing and get to know your equipment.
Testing Skis
Ski testing is more complicated than people think. The
ski that glides the farthest or the fastest in a test is not necessarily the
fastest ski for the race. The important thing to note here is that the test has
to fit what we are trying to measure. The two basic components of ski speed
measurement (as relates to cross country skiers) are breakaway speed and
terminal velocity. Breakaway speed is the speed at which the ski suddenly begins
to feel free and accelerates. Most conditions offer a distinctive breakaway
speed which is usually somewhere around the pace skiers race at. This makes the
breakaway speed especially important as a small discrepancy will make a big
difference over a race. Breakaway speed can be noticed subjectively and will
also show up in tests that involve speeds resembling that in a race (from as
slow as climbing to as fast as on a flat). Terminal velocity is the high end
speed that the ski can reach. In courses with long fast downhills with runouts
this is also worth noting, although most of the time breakaway speed should be
the most important consideration. Terminal velocity can be measured using a
speed trap such as the Toko Timing System. (Terminal velocity isn't actually
measured, but testing results at higher speeds is an indicator). One test that
can be done is starting high up on a hill and setting the Toko Timing System
lower down in the hill covering a section about 4 to 5 seconds long. This will
give an indication of the skis high end speed. The breakaway speed test should
be done on more gradual terrain. The skiers should start from standing and after
a few seconds of acceleration time should go through the timing system with the
magnets about 4 to 5 seconds apart. Average speed through the timing system
should be similar to that in racing. During speed tests, the body should always
be in the same position (tuck is most consistent because of wind) and the skier
should concentrate on starting the same way every time.
Racers spend hundreds of hours training and thousands of
dollars on equipment each year. Having fast skis is an essential component to
winning races and enjoying ski sports. Toko is the world leader in this
specialty.
Toko Wax and Tools
Pioneer Sports Inc.
855 South 600 West Suite 105
Heber City, UT 84032
888-367-9656
www.tokowax.com